Tools for Beginner Sewists: Part 2

Hello Friends and Welcome Back!

In case you missed last week, check out Part 1 of this post which covers the absolute most basic supplies and tools you will need to start sewing.

This week, I'll be covering some really common additional tools and upgrades that will help make beginner projects get done fast and look their best. Please remember that nothing on this list is strictly necessary for most projects, I have completed many of my own with just the use of the tools listed in Part 1.

Once again, I'll introduce the tools with prices I've recently paid in Canadian dollars, but for the tools I've been gifted, inherited, or have had for a long time, I may not mention a price.

Additional Tools and Upgrades

Once you've made a few projects with your basic tool kit, you might want to invest in a few additional supplies to make sewing faster and easier.

Sewing Machine:

Using a sewing machine is a great way to make strong, even stitches, and can help you complete projects really quickly. It does come with a learning curve; you will need to know how to operate, thread, and adjust the tension on your machine, as well as some basic maintenance. They also require a few additional supplies which, depending on where you buy your machine, may not be included.

Sewing machine needles are different from hand sewing needles, they are generally much larger to withstand the force of the sewing machine, and the eye of the needle is at the point rather than the end of the shaft. There are many different types of sewing machine needles made in a variety of shapes and with different coatings for use with different fabrics and thread types. Check out this guide by Schmetz Needles on the different uses of each needle type. It is generally advised that you change the needle on your sewing machine every time you finish a project, this way your needle doesn't become warped or dull and won't damage your fabric or machine.

Next, you'll need some bobbins. A bobbin is a small spool used to load thread through the bottom of a sewing machine, it comes empty so you can wind it with thread that matches your top spool. There are some situations where you might want to use a different top thread and bobbin thread, such as when using metallic threads, but for most projects matching your top and bobbin threads helps them to blend into your fabric. Some companies make uniquely shaped bobbins that won't fit into every machine, so if you're not sure, buy bobbins from the company that made your sewing machine.

Most sewing machines come with a variety of presser feet. These are detachable pieces used to flatten the layers of fabric so they feed through the sewing machine smoothly, the variety of shapes are customised for specific types of sewing. The default foot is the straight stitch and zig-zag foot, it can be used for most beginner sewing. Some other useful feet for garment sewing include the zipper foot, used for installing zippers, and the button hole foot, used when securing the edges of fabric around a button hole. For quilting, you might consider the walking foot, used for long lines of straight or gently curved quilting, and the free motion foot, used when quilting detailed shapes and patterns. Before purchasing additional feet, you will need to know if your machine is high shank, or low shank, download your machine manual for specific details.

To maintain your machine, you will also want sewing machine oil and a screwdriver. The screwdriver is used to remove certain plates from your machine so you can clean it, and for changing your presser foot. Sewing machines usually come with screwdrivers in the necessary sizes, but they may have been misplaced if buying a second-hand machine.

You should oil your machine and clean the fluff and fibres out a few times a year. I don't clean my machine nearly as often as I probably should. You can find instructions for maintaining your specific sewing machine by searching the model number and "cleaning and maintenance".

When you're shopping for a machine, make sure you're looking at sewing machines and not any other type of specialty machine. In addition to sewing machines, you can buy embroidery machines, and sergers or overlock machines. You will also want to check if it is a domestic or industrial sewing machine, industrial machines are big, heavy, and not intended to be portable, they are also very fast and are not very beginner friendly, after over a decade of sewing, they still scare me a little.

If you buy a sewing machine brand new from the manufacturer, they will include most of the tools listed above. If buying one used, it will depend on the reason the machine is being sold; you will want to work out with the seller what will be included so you know what you will need to buy once you've picked up the sewing machine.

Unfortunately, I can't offer much advice for sewing machine shopping as I have never bought one. I was gifted my first machine by my Grandma when she replaced hers, and my second machine, which I am currently using, was inherited from my Omi after she passed away. The machine I'm using is a Singer 4411 Heavy Duty.

Thimble and Beeswax:

If you're enjoying hand sewing and want to pursue it long term, I recommend buying a comfortable thimble and some beeswax. You will have a brief adjustment period while you're learning how to sew with a thimble, I started using one this past summer, by December it felt wrong sewing without.

A thimble allows you to easily push the needle through many layers of fabric without limiting your dexterity, making sewing much faster and more comfortable. Thimbles come in a variety of materials and styles; silicone thimbles can shape to your finger and be more comfortable, but the needle can sometimes push through the thimble if you use too much pressure. Silicone thimbles can also have metal tips to prevent this problem, I have never used one of these myself, but I've been told that some people find the metal tip is not positioned correctly for the way they sew. You can also buy metal thimbles, they don't come in as many sizes since the rise of the sewing machine, but you can shop around until you find a modern one that feels right or use an antique thimble. I use an open sided metal thimble because the size can be adjusted and the open side doesn't press on or bend my fingernails. It cost around $15.

Another important hand sewing tool is beeswax. Beeswax is used to coat the thread making it more durable. If you already own a beeswax candle, you can use that, beeswax can also be bought as a brick in a variety of sizes. I bought my little stick of beeswax from a local bee farm at a farmers market for less than $5 and have been using it for around 5 years, it's about 1"x1"x3".

Seam Ripper and Thread Scissors:

Everyone makes mistakes at some point, while you could use your needle and sewing scissors to pick apart the offending seam, there are a few specialized tools for getting the job done fast.

Many people use a seam ripper; this tool has a needle-like point and a small blade that can be used to cut seams apart quickly, and they come in a variety of sizes and colours to fit the user's preference. Unfortunately, due to the association between sewing mistakes and the seam ripper, it has developed a reputation for inducing anxiety. This reputation has recently put me off using seam rippers, instead, I prefer to use thread scissors.

Thread scissors are very small scissors, the tip of their blades is small enough to pick out seams and they come in a variety of colours and patterns. I picked a red hounds tooth pattern to differentiate mine from my Mother's blue button patterned thread scissors. I've had mine for a few years now, I paid around $7. I actually enjoy using them since they aren't only used for undoing mistakes, they can be used for cutting lengths of thread and even cut fabric pretty well.

Ultimately, whether you prefer a seam ripper or thread scissors is a matter of opinion. You can try experimenting with both, or you might find a totally different solution that works for you!

Iron:

While learning to sew and quilt, I was taught to heat press every seam. Pressing as you make a project helps the end result appear cleaner and more professional. You can get away with finger pressing your seams or basting them into their pressed position, but these methods won't help you flatten creases out of your fabric. I prefer to use a steam iron, the steam setting helps to remove the most stubborn creases from your fabric and convinces seams to stay precisely where you've put them. Finger pressing before heat pressing will also help your seams to keep the proper position and can sometimes convince the seams to lay flatter than heat pressing alone.

Most irons also have adjustable temperature settings for use on a variety of fabrics. Polyester and synthetic fabrics are made with plastic and have to be pressed at a lower temperature to prevent them from melting. Natural fibre fabrics can be pressed at much higher temperatures which helps them retain their freshly pressed look for longer.

I recently bought a steam iron from my local hardware store for around $40. They can also be bought second-hand, but you will want to clean it before using on your fabric. You can download the user manual to see if there's any specifications for cleaning your iron.

Before you begin ironing, you'll need to prepare a pressing surface. The heat of your iron can damage your work surfaces; you can protect them by laying down a clean towel. You could also buy a pressing mat or adjustable ironing board. I also like to keep some old dish towels at my ironing station to use as pressing cloths. A pressing cloth is used to protect the surface of the iron from collecting residue off your fabrics, they are especially important when pressing a project containing glue, such as fusible materials.

Straight Pins, Safety Pins, and Clips:

The more layers you're trying to sew together, the more likely it becomes that something will shift and your seam won't be exactly where you want it. To help deal with this, you can use pins, clips, or thread basting.

Thread basting is done using a needle and thread, which you already have from Part 1, but it can take a lot of time. If you're working on a project with a deadline, or you're just really excited to see your piece coming together, you can try using pins.

Straight pins are one of the few items I would suggest a beginner buy really cheaply. Most discount stores have packages of straight pins for only a few dollars. These pins are often very wide or blunt and might leave marks in your fabric, but if you are careful to only pin in the seam allowance, you won't have any visible marks on your finished projects. You can also buy pins with coloured heads, these can be easier to see in your project than metal headed pins and might help prevent you from poking yourself by accident.

To further reduce the chances of being poked, you could use safety pins, where the sharp point is closed off, or clips, which don't have a point at all. I have never tried using clips, they are limited to being used on the edge of a project for seams or binding, but they aren't much use if you're working in the centre of a project. Many quilters love them for holding the folded edge of binding.

Safety pins are great for projects that need to be held together for long periods of time or for basting quilt sandwiches. Since the pin can be closed around the fabric, there's no chance of one slipping out or getting caught in another piece of fabric. Safety pins are also great for fitting garments since they won't fall out or poke the wearer while they're moving around or removing the garment. I bought a package of safety pins on sale for $11, regular $18.

Rotary Cutter, and Accessories:

For cutting their fabric, many sewists prefer using a rotary cutter over scissors. These allow you to cut fabric quickly while remaining precise. I bought my rotary cutter for $25, but before you go out and buy one for yourself, you'll need some additional supplies.

A self-healing cutting mat protects your work surface from the sharp rotary blade, and the self-healing nature of the mat means your blade won't get caught in old cut marks and skew your cutting. It also protects the blade of your rotary cutter from being damaged or dulled by your work surface. I would recommend buying a mat at least 24" wide so you can cut half widths of fabric. My first mat was 18" x 24" and cost around $50.

If you want to learn to quilt, you will also want some rulers. My first ruler was 8½" x 24½" and cost around $50, I would recommend at least this long so you can cut across a half width of fabric without needing to adjust your ruler. The second ruler I bought was a 12½" square ruler which was about $30, this is a great size for squaring off most quilt blocks. My rulers have textured patches on the back to prevent them from slipping on the fabric while I'm cutting, I definitely notice a different when I use other rulers.

Finally, you will need to buy replacement blades. If you take good care of the blade that comes with your rotary cutter, you won't need to buy a replacement for some time, but whenever your blade does get damaged or blunt, it's best to have replacements on hand. A package of 2 replacement blades cost me around $23. I've had my rotary cutter for a little over a year and have not had to replace the blade yet. Depending on which fabrics and frequency of use, your blade will need to be replaced more or less often.

Tools Already in Your Home

Sewing doesn't always need special tools, some of the supplies you'll need can be easily found around your house.

Marking Pen:

I don't actually mean pen, this could be chalk, pencil, washable marker, or any other medium that will leave visible marks on your fabric. My favourite marking tool is a mechanical pencil I found on the floor of a lecture hall at university. The thin lead leaves very precise lines and the graphite sits on one side of the fabric without soaking through and showing on the other side. If you have to mark a visible part of your project, such as tracing lines for quilting or darts in garments, you will want to use chalk or wash the marks out as soon as you no longer need them. Even pens marked as washable can stain if left on fabric for too long.

Project Journal:

Having a specific place to store your ideas and plans for sewing projects is a great way to keep organized. Your project journal could be a physical book, like mine, or a folder in the notes app on your smartphone. Use whatever makes the most sense to you.

My project journal includes a list of upcoming projects, doodles, patterns I'm drafting, colour studies, and notes from sewing research. If you use a physical book, you can attach fabric swatches if you're shopping at many stores to easily compare colours, and receipts to track your spending. Notebooks can be bought very cheaply at discount stores and are available with a variety of cover patterns.

Storage and luggage:

Once you start accumulating tools, you'll need a safe place to keep them. It is very common for sewists to have a sewing bag containing their essential tools. By keeping your tools together in one place they are easy to find when you need them and ready to travel if you want to work on a project away from your home.

There are tonnes of free, beginner friendly patterns available online for making your own sewing bag, and you can customize it to be exactly the right size and print, and have your preferred number of pockets.

Pins and needles can be stored in a well-sealed container or a pin cushion. When using a pin cushion, I like to store my needles across the outside as seen in the picture so they don't accidentally get pushed completely inside. You can also use a magnetic bowl, these can be bough for around $5 at your local hardware store. When your pins become too dull or bent to use, you will want to throw them away. I am using an old plastic hummus container to collect my discarded sharp objects, make sure it's clearly labelled. Once you're ready to throw them out, use packing tape to seal the container so it won't be dangerous for your garbage worker to handle.

When I'm working on multiple projects at a time, I like to keep them divided into packages so I don't lose pieces or accidentally use fabric for the wrong project. For this, you can use old shoe boxes, resealable plastic freezer bags, or even a plastic grocery bag. I really like the pouches that new sheets, duvets, and comforters come in, if you or someone you know is looking for new bedding, ask them to save the packaging for you.

The more supplies and tools you acquire, the more important it is to stay organized. Try to keep everything in one place by devoting a specific shelf or cupboard to sewing stuff. I like to use clear plastic storage bins so I can see what's inside, I picked mine up from a local discount store for around $3 apiece.

Some Final Advice

If you can, support local sewing and quilting stores by buying your supplies from them. If you ever need help, they will be happy to provide recommendations and personalized assistance. You can learn a lot by asking questions at sewing stores, if they aren't busy, they love talking about their hobbies! This is also a great way to find sewing groups in your area and to make connections.

You can get a lot of stuff for free by talking to family and friends, you never know who might have some unused sewing supplies sitting around their home. Most people who have supplies left behind by a departed family member would rather see those things get used than keep them hidden away in a basement.

Follow local marketplace or trading groups on Facebook, people are upgrading their machines and equipment all the time, not because the old stuff is broken, but just because they want to. Do a little research before agreeing on a price so you're not paying more than a tool is worth, especially when buying used. If you're buying a sewing machine, ask to test it first so you can be sure it works.

What is in your basic sewing kit? Let me know if I've missed an important tool

in the comments below!

Happy Sewing,

VA