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Quilting Research: Curved Piecing

  • Writer: vafibrearts
    vafibrearts
  • May 10, 2021
  • 8 min read

Hello Friends and Welcome Back!


After a week off, I'm feeling much more like myself, and very inspired to get back into quilt making! In case you missed the announcement I posted: I was sick and decided to take a week off from the blog to recover. Just to be on the cautious side, I got tested for COVID and the result came back negative! It's always nice to know I'm not a danger to my community.


With that announcement out of the way, let's get into the real topic for this week's post; curved piecing. So far, very few of my Monday posts have had any correlation to the quilts I'm actually working on, and I think I'd like that to change.


Currently, I'm working on two Block of the Month projects which each involved quite a bit of curved piecing. Some blocks follow the more traditional method of using templates to create whole, half, and quarter circles, others use the more modern method of improv piecing.


Specifically, this research was done to help me plan the background piecing for my Wetlands BoM quilt. Since I've chosen to deviate a little from the pattern and piece my background blocks, I needed a little guidance. Read on Friends, to see the results of my research!



Traditional Curved Piecing


A wide variety of traditional quilt blocks use curves in their piecing. They create symmetry and cohesion, and help the quilt to visually flow from one block to the next. Traditional blocks often employ regular curves based on the shape of a circle. There are many designs that use full, semi, and quarter circles to create classic quilt blocks.


To ensure all pieces use the same identical curve, traditional blocks are usually cut using templates. Since many traditional blocks use a lot of the same shapes, you can use a single template to make a near infinite number of patterns.

One great example is the Drunkards Path. The block used in this pattern is a single, inset quarter circle. This simple block can be repeated and rearranged in a variety of colours and sizes to create an infinite number of unique quilts!

Medallion quilts, like this Mariner's Compass also use circles as the focus shape, though generally it's first pieced together from other shapes to create the larger circle. This circle can then be inset or appliqued onto the quilt centre as a singular focus block.


There are also a lot of great examples of traditional curved piecing that use overlapping circles as inspiration. Unlike quarter and semicircles, these blocks don't include any sides with straight edges and are not intended to fit within the confines of a square block.

In this Clamshell example, you can see how three circles overlap to create a totally new shape.

The Apple Core pattern uses the same inspiration of layered circles, but in a different configuration.


Clamshell and Apple Core quilts still use symmetry and regular curves despite no longer being truly circular blocks.


Finally, there are lots of traditional quilt patterns that use other curved shapes, like teardrops and ellipses. While these shapes are not circular, they still feature smooth, regular, symmetrical curves and symmetry within the block.

Orange Peel quilts use a long, elliptical shape with two pointed ends. There are two common ways of setting them into a block; the ellipse can be inset into a square block, or the whole quilt can be pieced using a combination of ellipses and concave square shapes.

An example that uses a teardrop shape is the Dresden Plate. Long teardrops are pieced together to create a similar effect to the medallion mentioned earlier, but this time with a scalloped outer edge. Another circle is appliqued or inset into the centre.


As you can see from all these examples, patterning and repetition are super important in traditional quilts. By using shapes with consistent and regular curves, all the pieces will fit together perfectly and symmetrically.



Modern Improv Curved Piecing


Modern improv piecing is very different from the structured symmetry and all over repetition of traditional curved piecing. It uses much more organic and imprecise curves, with a particular focus on variation and asymmetry.


One key feature of this style is the improvisation of shapes and lines. Improv quilts are generally not planned out in advance, aside from selecting a colour scheme perhaps. By making up the shapes and lines as you go along, improv offers the opportunity for experimentation and following your instinct, leading to the creation of a totally unique and original quilt each time!


Due to being improvisational, this technique does not use templates. Instead, the pieces are cut by overlapping two pieces of fabric, both right sides facing up, and using a rotary blade to cut through both layers simultaneously.

One of the most common curved improv techniques is the organic strip quilt. The width of each strip varies with the will of the maker, creating a dynamic and constantly changing viewing experience.

You can also add a twist on the classic improv strip look by first piecing together your strips from scraps and remnants. This could be done following a particular pattern, such as a traditional postage stamp grid, or using the more improvisational crumb technique.

Improv can also be used to create circular forms, although not in the precise way traditional piecing does. Quarter and semicircular shapes can be cut into the corners and edges of the block, but not inset into the centre.

Curved improv piecing can also be layered to create an illusion of depth. Once you've sewn together your background layer, cut the next layer across the existing seams to create an overlapping piece.


One very important thing to remember with improv piecing is that the edges of the block should not be expected to line up. If you have a particular finished size in mind, cut your pieces a few inches larger to allow for warping, then trim your block down to size once all sewing is finished.



Tips


Preparation and Planning

  • If you're trying curved piecing for the first time, plan to make a block that uses gentler curves. These are easier to sew accurately than very tight curves. This works well with improv piecing, but for traditional blocks, you can make the curves gentler by making a larger version of the block.

  • Make a test block using scrap fabric to practice any new techniques. You'll be able to work through any challenging steps without wasting your project fabric.

  • Press fabric thoroughly. This will make your cutting more accurate.

  • Starch your fabric to help prevent stretching. Since curved pieces will be sewn on the bias (meaning the stretchiest way fabric can be sewn) this will help your pieces to keep their proper shape and can result in flatter blocks. I don't know anything about starch since I was never taught to use it, so I always skip this step. It's not uncommon for my blocks to be a little bubbly and not totally flat, so maybe I should give starching a try sometime.

  • Some fabrics are naturally stiffer and may not require starching.

  • If you plan to make a traditional block, download, buy, or make a template for your curves to ensure they are cut consistently. It will be much easier to sew them together this way. Make sure to double check if your template includes seam allowance or not before you start cutting.


Cutting

  • If using a rotary blade, use the smallest one you have available. A smaller blade will manoeuvre better around the curves, creating a more precise cut.

  • For curved rotary cutting, use an old mat. Self healing mats are designed with straight line cutting in mind and curved cutting can warp the surface of the mat.

  • A sharp pair of fabric scissors are a great way to cut curves pieces with precision. But, if you're not used to cutting with scissors, your hands will tire out quickly and you may find it hurts after a short time. Wearing gloves may help with this.


Sewing Curves - note that most sources assume sewing will be done using a sewing machine and the tips I found reflect that.

  • Use a thread colour that matches your fabric. Curved seams are generally under more stress than straight seams and the stitches may be more visible from the right side.

  • Pinning is generally recommended, especially for traditional curved piecing. Starting from the centre of the curve, pin out towards the edges, easing the curve as you go. However, pinning is entirely a matter of personal preference and you may find it easier to sew curves without.

  • When sewing on a machine, put the needle in the downward position any time you stop sewing. This ensures the layers wont shift while adjusting your fabric.

  • Sew slowly and stop often to adjust your layers.

  • Handle your pieces gently. The curved edge is especially susceptible to warping from being cut on the bias and you want it to keep the proper shape as much as possible.

  • The most common advice is to sew with the concave piece on the top so you can see it, and the convex piece on the bottom touching the sewing machine. This only works for circular curves. The improv curves I was working with included both convex and concave curves on each piece.

  • There are some sewing machines that you can get a special curved piecing foot attachment for. I don't use one and have had no problems, but you may find that using a different foot will help curved piecing go more smoothly.


Pressing Curves

  • If your block includes any particularly extreme curves, you can clip into the seam allowance to make it more flexible. For gentle, improv style curved piecing, this is generally not necessary.

  • Press seam allowance to one side using lots of steam. This will help to mould the fabric into the curved shape of the seam.


Wetlands Block of the Month


For my quilt, I didn't want to use perfect circles, but I found true improv piecing didn't create exactly the shapes I was looking for. I wanted to create something where the pieces flowed into each other like water in a pond or the clouds in a sunrise sky.

I cut out a paper rectangle 1" larger than the desired finished size of the block to account for any uneven edges. Following the advice I found for curved improv piecing, I drew abstract, gently curving lines across the paper, adjusting them until I was happy with the shapes.

I labelled each piece before cutting them apart on the drawn line. My paper templates don't include seam allowance, so I cut my fabric ¼" larger on all sides to account for that. All pieces were cut with the right side of the fabric facing up and the right side or the pattern piece facing up.

With all my pieces cut, I sewed the block together. I found that I preferred to not use pins, and simply adjust the curves along the seam as I was sewing.

With my seams pressed and my block trimmed down to the correct size, I'm finished, now I just have to make about 20 more of these!



Thank you all for joining me on this little research escapade, it's great to have taken another step towards a finished project! As usual, you can find my sources down below, most of them are blogs that you can visit for yourself and find even more useful information that will be relevant to your own work!


If you have any more tips for curved piecing, please leave them in the comments below!


Join me again on Thursday for my Project Update if you'd like to see more pictures of my Wetlands quilt and see what else I'm up to. I also share pictures on Instagram @vafibrearts and in my Facebook group. For now, I need to get back to my Wetlands quilt!


Until Next Time Friends,

VA


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