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Summer 2021 Mini Quilt Challenge: Needle Turn Applique

  • Writer: vafibrearts
    vafibrearts
  • Sep 6, 2021
  • 9 min read

Hello Friends and Welcome!


The eleventh week of the Summer Mini Quilt Challenge has come and gone, and with it, I've learned another exciting new technique!


The prompt for this week was needle turn applique, a method of hand applique I've been meaning to try for a long time! It's similar to the method I've used in the past, which turns out to be called prepared edge applique, but was just different enough to be a challenge!


So Friends, let's get right into the research!



Needle Turn Applique Research


Applique is a method of creating designs from fabric by sewing shaped patches onto a background. Shapes can be layered on top of or alongside each other to create more detailed and complex designs.


There are many different methods for creating applique; hand or machine, raw or finished edges, fused or sewn. With so many different methods, a near infinite variety of effects can be achieved, especially by using a mix of different methods within a single project!

The needle turn method, which I focused on for this project, is notable for having relatively little preparatory work. This allows makers to actually begin sewing the piece much more quickly and is the reason so many quilt makers love this method! One downside to this is that pieces are liable to stretch or warp since they aren't basted in advance. Some people love the individuality and character this adds to the quilt, while others may be unsatisfied with the imprecision.


As with all quilt making techniques, the way you feel about a given method will come down to personal preference. So give it a try for yourself to find out!



Tools for Needle Turn Applique


Because it doesn't require much preparation, needle turn applique also doesn't need much in the way of tools. You will need:


Hand Sewing Needle: There are a few options for size and type of needle, which you use comes down to preference. Some creators prefer a milliners needle, which is long and thin, which helps when turning the seam allowance. The other common preference was size 10 sharp variety needles, which are quite small and allow for precision stitching.


Thread: Finer thread is generally recommended for applique as the fibres of a fine thread virtually disappear into the fabric, making stitches nearly invisible. Using a thread colour that matches the applique piece will also help to make stitching less visible.

Scissors: You may want a few different pairs of scissors on hand for applique. a larger pair of fabric scissors will be used to cut the general shapes of the applique patches, while small, sharp thread scissors are better for clipping around curves and corners, and for cutting threads close to the fabric's surface.


Marking Pen: Marking accurate lines is very important for needle turn applique. Select a marking tool that is both precise and removable since it will be used on the presentation side of the fabric.


These four tools are the only things necessary for needle turn applique. Many articles reference additional tools that may make the process easier or faster, but none of those are strictly necessary. Check out the links at the end of this post to learn more about those optional tools!



Methods for Needle Turn Applique


Needle turn applique is a fairly simple process which can be broken down into a few main steps.


Preparing the Applique Patches: Use a marking tool to transfer the applique shapes onto the right side of the applique fabric, leaving space between for seam allowance. If using a pattern, templates will be provided, if using an original design, templates will need to be drafted.


Cut around the shapes outside of the marked lines to add seam allowance. For large shapes, use a ¼" seam allowance, for smaller, more intricate shapes, use a smaller, ⅛" seam allowance.


Clip around all curves and inside angles, being careful to not clip through the marked line. This will make the edges of the applique flexible and help to reduce bulk.


Preparing the Background: Cut a piece of background fabric 1" to 2" larger than the size of the finished block. This extra size will allow for shrinking that may happen when sewing the applique pieces.


Use a marking tool to lightly transfer the complete applique design onto the right side of the background fabric.


Sewing the Block: With the applique patches and background prepared, it is time to assemble the block!


Reference the pattern to identify which patch is the bottom-most in the design. This piece will need to be sewn on first so that other patches can be layered over top of it. Not all patterns have overlapping pieces, in which case it is best to begin sewing applique patches in the centre and work out.


Baste the first applique patch in line with the marked background. Basting can be done with glue, thread, pins, or simply held by hand. Regardless of the basting method, be sure to leave the edges of the patch free.


Thread a needle with a small length of thread with a knot tied at the end. Insert the needle through the back side of the applique patch, coming up exactly on the marked line.


Use the tip of the needle to tuck the seam allowance under the patch, then complete the first stitch by running the needle through the background fabric. Tuck under the seam allowance about ½" ahead of where you are sewing and use a slip stitch to secure the edge of the applique.


Continue sewing around the shape, alternating between stitching and turning the seam allowance. Use the marked lines on the background fabric to guide the edge of the applique patch as you're sewing, keeping it properly aligned within the pattern. Add more patches to build up the applique design until complete!


Quilting: When quilting an applique block or quilt, the most traditional option is to outline the applique shapes without sewing through them. Quilt any large areas of open background using a simple all over design. This type of quilting allows the applique to remain puffy, helping it stand out from the background.


Another option that achieves a similar effect is quilting the background with an all over design, then sewing the applique pieces onto the pre-quilted background.


A more modern option of quilting an applique project is to quilt over the applique and background with an all over design. This flattens the applique pieces, but in quilting over them, makes them more secure by reinforcing the hand sewn edges.



Applique Design


But before making an applique project, we must first select a pattern!


As a hand worked method, needle turn applique is often associated with traditional block designs. Traditional applique quilts generally feature representational motifs of things the quilt makers saw in the world around them. These blocks ranged in difficulty from simple nursery rhyme characters and animals, to intricate and complex floral motifs.

Traditional motifs are generally quite symmetrical, using organic forms to fill the square block. Applique in traditional blocks is completely contained within the block, without falling off the edge.

The most traditional colour scheme includes a white background with two or three accent colours used for the applique pieces. A particularly popular colour scheme, which can be found in antique quilts from several different periods, was green and red on a white background.


But, while it may be most often associated with traditional block designs, needle turn applique can also be used to create modern motifs as well! Some modern applique motifs are representational, but unlike traditional blocks, may be asymmetrical, or have pieces that fall off the sides. They may incorporate decorative, geometric patterns into organic forms, or even create an entire scene!

Modern applique quilts can also be much more abstract, using colour and form to create something totally unique!

Unlike traditional applique, modern blocks don't have any particular colour scheme associated with them. They could follow the traditional formula of a few colours on a white background or use a wide range of many, many different colours. They could even be monochromatic, using a single colour in many values!



Making the Mini


With all this research guiding me, I could finally get started on my week eleven mini quilt!


Initially, I wanted to go for a complex traditional design, featuring lots of leaves and flowers and a variety of overlapping pieces. Unfortunately, with only a week to make the project, I had to set that idea aside for something a little simpler.

Instead, I took inspiration from a traditional pieced pattern and decided to make an orange peel quilt. This design is much more simplistic, making use of a single repeated shape on a plain background. While the orange peel pattern is often patchwork pieced, the design can also be easily achieved using applique!

To compliment the citrus theme in the pattern's name, I decided to use a variety of bright greens, yellows, and oranges for the applique. These bright colours are reminiscent of limes, lemons, and of course, oranges, and stand out nicely against a traditionally white background.


To create my orange peels, I used the leaf template made earlier this summer for the National Quilt Museum's June block of the month pattern, Circular Leaf, designed by Cathy Erickson. You can read more about how I made the template in my 17 June Project Update.


I used the template to help draft a diagonal grid onto my background fabric, so the orange peel motif would be centred and symmetrical.

With my background marked, I knew I would need 16 appliqued peels to complete my project. I used the template to mark the peel shape on the right sides of the applique fabric, leaving a scant ¼" seam allowance on all sides.


The curves on these pieces are gentle enough that I didn't think clipping them would be necessary.


One advantage of the orange peel pattern is that none of the applique shapes overlap one another. With no particular piece needing to be sewn first, I decided to simply start in the middle and work outwards.

I began by thread basting one of the central peel shapes along the marked grid lines on the background fabric.


Throughout the project, I played around with different combinations of thread basting, pinning, and simply holding pieces in place by hand, finding that I didn't have any particular preference. If one method annoyed me or became inconvenient, I would simply switch to another.

I sewed on the peel shapes one at a time using a hand sewn slip stitch. I'm very comfortable with this stitch from my past experiences with applique, but the process of tucking under the seam allowance along the way was really strange to me.


Turning the edges of the applique really slowed me down while sewing, so after completing half of my orange peels using my normal size 10 betweens needles, I decided to switch to a size 10 milliners needle.

The milliners needle is a much longer, thinner needle and was one of the different needles recommended in my research. I found the length of this needle was much more effective at rolling under the seam allowance of the applique shapes.


Since I'm used to sewing with a shorter needle, the milliners needle wasn't any faster, but it did feel easier. I used this new needle to finish securing the applique before moving onto the next step, quilting!

I decided on a very simple motif, using outline quilting to accent the applique shapes, transferring the orange peel design onto the back of the quilt.


I finished the edges with a scrappy binding using the same colours as the applique, and the week eleven mini quilt was complete!

VA, Needle Turn Applique Mini Quilt, 2021, 8¾" x 8¾", cotton thread and fabric, poly-cotton batting.


I'm really happy with this week's finished mini quilt, and especially love the combination of colours! I think repeating them in the scrappy binding was a really fun detail!



Friends, I had so much fun trying out a new quilt making method this week! I loved the experimental element of this project, but ended up learning that I prefer my other method, prepared edge applique, over this one. I think the extra time spent prepping the pieces in advance made the actual process of sewing the patches much faster and easier.


Of course, this is my own opinion, and I would encourage all of you to do some experimentation with this method if you're at all interested! This post wasn't intended as a tutorial, so check out my references at the end of this post for some proper instructions.


If you do end up making a needle turn project of your own, I would love to see what you create! Feel free to share photos and stories in the comments below or by tagging me on social media!


If you'd like more information about the Summer Mini Quilt Challenge, of which this quilt is a part, check out the original Challenge Announcement post. It includes the full list of the prompts and guidelines I've been following, as well as links to posts about each of the other mini quilts I've made this summer!


There's still a few weeks left of this challenge, so it's not to late to make a mini quilt of your own! If you plan to share photos of your project on social media, remember to use the #summer2021miniquilts tag so I can find your post!


The prompt I've chosen for next week is bagging out. This is a finishing technique I've used many times while constructing garments, but have never used to make a quilt. I'm excited to try out this technique in a new context and can't wait to see what I'll make!


Until Next Time Friends, Keep Creating!

VA


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