The Generations Quilt Project: Template Drafting

Hello Friends and Welcome Back!

After last week's introduction to the Generations Quilt project, this week, I'm excited to share more on my process of drafting block templates!

For those who don't know, the Generations Quilt is a multigenerational family heritage project which, once complete, will feature blocks made by four generations of my family. It was originally inspired by a box of quilt blocks left behind by my Great Grandmother after her passing.

It is now the goal of Grandma, Mom, and myself to make some blocks of our own to add to those made by my Great Grandmother, and complete a series of quilts. For more information on the history and logistics of this project, check out last week's post.

Since this project is making use of existing quilt blocks, I chose to draft my own templates that would exactly match the dimensions and sizes of the pieces used in the original blocks. This way, the modern blocks we make today will be more cohesive with Great Grandmother's vintage blocks.

Before we get started, I would like to note that this post is not intended as a tutorial, nor do I mean to imply that my method is the only correct drafting method. I am simply interested in sharing the process I used, and hope I'm able to inspire some of you to try drafting a template for yourselves!

Drafting Supplies

To draft a pattern template, there are a few things I like to have on hand. Note that my method is for drafting patterns by hand, digital drafting is an entirely different experience that requires a totally different set of tools.

Pencil: As an erasable tool, pencils are great for drafting patterns. Individual lines can be added or erased without disrupting the integrity of the pattern as a whole.

I like to use a mechanical pencil, they have a very fine tip for creating precise lines without the need to sharpen them regularly. A standard wooden pencil is also a perfectly functional alternative.

Ruler: When drafting, a ruler serves a few different functions. Drawing perfectly straight lines by eye is very difficult, so using a ruler will ensure lines are drawn consistently.

Rulers are also useful for measuring. Since I'm drafting my templates from an existing set of blocks, I will need to measure those blocks to be sure my templates actually match them.

Paper: Of course, we will need something to draw on. I generally use grid paper since the grid lines help to keep my drawn lines straight and my corners perfectly square.

I never cut my original template drawing, so I like to have a couple extra pages on hand to trace my templates onto. Once traced, I can cut the template out of the second page to compare it against the original block. This can also be done by scanning the page with a printer.

Protractor: A protractor serves a similar function to that of a ruler, but measures angles rather than length. Some quilting rulers have commonly used angles included on them, such as 30, 45, and 60 degree markers, but you may sometimes find yourself in need of alternative angles. This is when a dedicated protractor comes in handy.

Dark Pen: After drafting my template in pencil, I like to make my lines permanent by drawing over them in a dark pen. The dark ink of the pen allows me to scan or trace my templates easily, preventing damage to the original template.

With all the necessary supplies assembled, let's get into the drafting process!

My Drafting Process

Drafting a template from an existing block is a fairly simple process of taking measurements, transferring them to paper, and confirming the completed template by comparing it to the original block.

I learned to quilt using imperial measurements (inches), so that will be what I use for my own pattern, however the process is exactly the same for using metric measurements. Simply use whichever measuring system makes the most sense to you.

Here are a few additional tips that I like to consider while drafting:

I like to find a way to divide the pattern into identical and symmetrical halves or quarters so I could draw just a small part of the pattern rather than the whole thing. Since the halves are symmetrical, I can get an accurate template without needing to draw the entire pattern

Even if the block uses a single repeated shape, draw at least three pieces together to be sure it actually looks cohesive. Certain angles can look totally natural on a single piece, but when placed together with other pieces, appear very exaggerated.

When measuring from an existing block, measure several different pieces to find an average. Fabric tends to warp a little while being sewn, so measuring several pieces and comparing the results will be the best way of getting an accurate value.

As I've already stated, my way is neither the right way, nor the only way of drafting templates, so follow your own instincts and do what makes the most sense to you!

Dresden Plate

The Dresden Plate is a traditional quilt block with a wide range of variations. Some are scalloped, others pointed, some have very few pieces while others have dozens, some are very large, and others very small.

My Great Grandmother's version of this block includes a total of 16 segments, which I call petals, and a scalloped outer edge. This is what I consider to be the classic Dresden Plate layout, but I suspect my opinion is based on these blocks to begin with, so may be somewhat skewed.

To draft the templates, I divided the full Dresden Plate down to a quarter. With 16 total petals, a quarter would contain only 4. Folding the actual Dresden Plate block into quarters was helpful for visualizing this.

I took measurements of the straight sides of a few different petals and decided they were about 2⅞". I also measured through the middle of each petal to the highest point along the curved outer edge, which was about 3⅜". Finally, I measured the radius of the empty circle in the centre of the block, about 1¾".

These were really the only measurements I needed to draft the template. I used them to sketch out an approximate quarter of a Dresden Plate block, then traced a single petal to another piece of paper. I cut out the traced petal, and compared it to my Great Grandmother's block by placing it on top of a few different petals.

I needed to adjust the outside curve a few times before I was happy with it, but once I was, I transferred it onto my pattern page and finalized the sketch by tracing over it using a fine tipped marker.

I also traced a single petal into one corner of the page with cutting instructions. Since I am planning to hand sew my blocks, I prefer to use a net template, or template with no seam allowance. My Mom plans to do most of the assembly by machine, so I added a second template with ¼" seam allowance for her to use.

A common feature of the Dresden Plate block, which is not included in those made by my Great Grandmother, is a central circle patch. Since this piece is the last to be sewn on, I assume she simply hadn't gotten around to that step.

I want to hear my Mom and Grandma's opinions on the size of circle that will work best for our blocks, so I'll be drafting that at a later time. Once we've decided, I'll seek out a bowl, cup, or other round container of an appropriate size and use that to create a template.

Six Pointed Star Block

Similarly to the Dresden Plate, there are many varieties of Six Pointed Star blocks, with a lot of variation in style and shape. Some are large and others small, some made by hand, others by machine, some with centres and others without.

The blocks made by my Great Grandmother feature 6 pentagonal segments which form a wreath with a central opening. This particular design seems to be fairly common in vintage quilts, but I've never seen it used in contemporary patterns.

This block was a little easier to draft than the Dresden Plate since the Six Pointed Star doesn't contain any curved lines.

To simplify the block, I divided it in half, once again folding the block to help visualize.

I measured all of the straight sides of the pentagonal segment. The side facing into the open centre was about 1⅝", the edges that touch adjacent segments were about 2½", and the outside edges that form the points of the star were about 3¼".

The protractor was really helpful for getting all of the lines angled correctly within the pattern. I measured each of the five angles on the pentagonal segments, as well as the angles of the hexagonal centre of the block.

Once I'd sketched everything out, I used the same method of tracing the template to a separate piece of paper, cutting it out, and comparing it to the existing block. I didn't need to make adjustments to this one since I had been so precise in my measurements, so I finalized the sketch by tracing it with a fine tipped marker.

I believe this version of the Six Pointed Star is also intended to have a central patch. Based on the shape of the block, I would think to use a hexagonal patch rather than a circular one as used by the Dresden Plate. I already have a hexagon template that might work for this, but I do want to talk to Grandma and Mom before making any final decisions.

Drafting the Background

The final piece we will need for both of these blocks is a square of background fabric. Great Grandmother used a 13" square of white fabric. I assume the blocks were intended to finish at 12" square, and that additional fabric was included in case the background shrank or warped while sewing down the applique.

I won't be making a template for this since I know each of us has rulers and can manage cutting a 13" square.

After drafting my templates, I'm even more excited about the Generations Quilt project!

I've made copies of the template sheets to distribute to my Mother and Grandma, and have already gotten started on making a few of my own blocks! I've shared some pictures of my progress on Instagram, you can visit me there @vafibrearts to check them out!

Thank you so much for visiting me again this week. If you have any questions, comments, or suggestions for me, feel free to share them in the comments below!